The Rose as a Healing Plant or Nightmare for the Skin?

The Rose as a Healing Plant or nightmare for the skin?

A Brief Overview

The rose has long been a symbol of love and femininity, admired for its delicate beauty and irresistible fragrance. Known as the "Queen of Flowers" by the Greek poet Sappho as early as 600 BC, its significance extends beyond mere aesthetics. The rose also holds a pivotal role in healing and beauty treatments. Among the many varieties, the Damask rose, or Rosa Damascena, is especially sought after. This variety, believed to be around 3,000 years old, originally bloomed in Persia (modern-day Iran) and is still considered one of the most important healing plants today.

The vibrant pink blooms of the Damask rose release an intense fragrance and are rich in essential oils. These flowers are a primary source for the production of precious rose oil and rose water, widely used in cosmetics. The Damask rose blooms twice a year—once in spring and again in autumn—but only the blooms from early in the year are used for extracting rose oil and rose water.

What is rose water?

Rose water is a hydrolat created from rose petals through distillation. The result is a rose hydrolat, also known as rose water. It has a pleasant rose fragrance – if you like the scent of roses. The INCI name for rose water that you can find on products is Rosa Damascena Flower Water.

So, rose water is water containing natural fragrance compounds from the rose bloom. It contains a fragrant alcohol that occurs naturally in rose hydrolat. For those who want to know the details: it's 2-phenylethanol. The INCI name for 2-phenylethanol is Phenethyl Alcohol. However, Phenethyl Alcohol doesn't need to be listed separately in rose water because it's a natural component. Some cosmetic brands claim that their rose water doesn’t contain alcohol or fragrance compounds.

This alcohol also gives rose water its lovely rose scent. That's why it's often said that rose water doesn't require preservatives. No surprise: the drying alcohol takes care of that.

The fragrance compound can irritate your skin and trigger contact allergies. When fragrance compounds break down upon exposure to light and air, it can even lead to skin irritation that causes more oil production. This is especially undesirable for sensitive skin prone to inflammation and pimples.

Tip: Don't confuse rose water with wild rose oil. Wild rose oil is derived from the seeds or pulp of the rosehip. It's also called rosehip oil.

Rose Water: A Skin Miracle or Myth?

Today, rose water is often touted as a magical elixir for the skin, with claims of hydration, calming effects, anti-inflammatory properties, and redness reduction. It's even said to be especially beneficial for sensitive skin or rosacea. However, as with many trends, it's important to approach rose water with a bit of skepticism. Let’s take a closer look at what rose water really does for your skin—and what it doesn’t.

Does Rose Water Hydrate the Skin?

If you’re using rose water in hopes of adding moisture to your skin, you might be disappointed. Pure rose water doesn’t contain any actual moisturizing agents. While it may contain small amounts of sugar that can offer a bit of hydration, it doesn’t have the power to retain water in the skin. In fact, it may even dry out your skin, especially because the alcohol in rose water is a drying agent. This type of alcohol belongs to a group of "drying" alcohols that can strip moisture from the skin.

Does Rose Water Reduce Redness?

Although rose water is often claimed to reduce redness, particularly for conditions like rosacea, the reality isn’t so rosy. If you have sensitive skin or rosacea, the fragrance and alcohol in rose water may actually exacerbate redness and irritation, not alleviate it. It’s particularly important for allergy sufferers and asthmatics to be cautious when using scented products, as they can trigger respiratory issues.

Can Rose Water Regulate the Skin’s pH?

Rose water is often said to help regulate the skin’s pH. Unfortunately, this claim is only partially true. The skin’s natural pH is slightly acidic (around 5.5), and disrupting this balance can leave the skin vulnerable. While rose water has a neutral pH of 7, it does not actively balance the skin’s pH. In fact, applying it may shift the skin's pH in the wrong direction, especially after using harsh soaps or cleansers. There are more suitable products available today, such as pH-balanced cleansers, that are designed to maintain the skin’s natural protective barrier.

Can Rose Water Tighten Pores?

Rose water is sometimes promoted as having an astringent effect, which supposedly tightens pores and gives the skin a smoother appearance. However, this is mostly a temporary visual effect caused by the alcohol in rose water, which can make the skin contract in response to irritation. This reaction is the skin’s defense mechanism, and while it may look like your pores have shrunk, it’s actually a sign that your skin is being stressed.

The Bottom Line: Is Rose Water Right for Your Skin?

Rose water is essentially only water infused with natural fragrance compounds from rose petals. It contains alcohol and may cause irritation, especially for sensitive or acne-prone skin. Its claims of hydrating, calming, and balancing the skin’s pH don’t hold up to scrutiny. While it may smell lovely, it’s not the skin-care miracle it’s often made out to be.

If you’re looking for a toner or light spray with natural ingredients that can calm and hydrate sensitive skin, there are better alternatives out there. Look for soothing plant-based ingredients like cucumber water, green tea, or aloe vera. These alternatives provide the benefits you're seeking without the drawbacks of rose water.

Suggestions for Alternatives

Rather than using rose water, consider using products that focus on hydration and calming effects without the irritating alcohol or fragrance. Alternative if you want to use a hydrolat, then you can opt for low-irritant hydrolats, such as cucumber water, rice water, or aloe vera. As a general rule, you can assume that hydrolats derived from flowers are usually not the best choice. So, either use products that don't contain plant hydrolats at all, like thermal water, which feels pleasant on the skin and provides a bit of hydration, or choose a skincare product with specifically soothing and hydrating ingredients such as aloe vera juice or actually lotus water.

For those who love the scent of roses, try decorating your space with fresh rose plants. Not only will they enhance your home’s atmosphere, but they can also purify the air.

We hope this article gives you a clearer understanding of rose water’s role in skincare. It’s important to be honest about what works and what doesn’t for your skin. Have you used rose water before? What has been your experience with it? Let us know in the comments!