What Vitamin C derivates to choose from?

Are Vitamin C Derivates as effective as L-Ascorbic Acid? 

In my last blog post, I covered the basics of Vitamin C, specifically focusing on the active form and the crème de la creme, L-Ascorbic Acid. I also received some great questions, including one about which Vitamin C is suitable for sensitive skin, and whether Vitamin C is essential in an everyday skincare routine. So today, let’s dive into all things Vitamin C!

We’re going to tackle the most pressing questions:

• What is Vitamin C?
• What does it do for your skin?
• How should you use it?
• And, should you be using it at all?

This is such a hot topic in skincare, so let’s cover it all: What is Vitamin C? What does it do? How should you use it? And, is it worth adding to your skincare routine? By the end of this post, you'll have the knowledge to make an informed decision. We’ll also go over the different types of Vitamin C derivatives out there—because, believe it or not, Vitamin C is not a one-size-fits-all ingredient. So, let’s jump in!

Let’s do a brief recap: What Is Vitamin C?

Vitamin C is a whole family of molecules, each slightly different. The Vitamin C you often hear about with all the glitzy skin benefits is called L-Ascorbic Acid, the active form. But because it’s unstable when exposed to light, air, and water, many brands turn to derivatives of Vitamin C to improve its stability.

There are tons of Vitamin C derivatives on the market like ascorbyl glucoside, THD ascorbate, and ethylated Vitamin C. But not all of them are created equal. So, what’s the best derivative for you, and when should you switch to one? We’ll get into that shortly.

The Importance of Vitamin C for the Body and Skin

Vitamin C is essential for our overall health and our skin, but our bodies can’t make it on their own. That’s why we depend on external sources—whether from our diet or through skincare. 

Decoding Vitamin C Derivatives

Before we dive into the science behind Vitamin C derivatives, let’s address a key question: How do I know if a product contains a Vitamin C derivative? Reading ingredient lists isn’t always easy, but it’s crucial for understanding what type of Vitamin C you’re getting.

Here are the three most common types of Vitamin C you’ll come across:

1. Ascorbic Acid (L-Ascorbic Acid): This is the Chef’s Kiss, most powerful form of Vitamin C. But it’s also the most unstable, which is why some people opt for derivatives.
2. Ascorbyl XYZ: This covers a range of Vitamin C derivatives like ascorbyl glucoside and sodium ascorbyl phosphate. These tend to be more stable but can have slightly different effects on the skin.
3. XYZ Ascorbate: This group includes newer, popular ingredients like THD ascorbate. These have gained traction for being stable and effective, but they’re still not quite the same as L-Ascorbic Acid.

 

Intro: When to Consider Switching to a Vitamin C Derivative

Let’s talk about when you might want to switch from using the regular & active Vitamin C, known as l’ascorbic acid, to a Vitamin C derivative. Now, I’m not saying run straight for the derivatives! Ascorbic acid is still the most tested and validated form of Vitamin C for skincare. It’s the most surefire way to get those brightening, antioxidant, and anti-aging benefits. But with skincare being personal and unique to each of us, it doesn’t work for everyone. 

Challenges with Ascorbic Acid

You might find that your ascorbic acid serum turns brown too quickly or has that unpleasant hotdog-water smell. Most importantly, it can be irritating—especially for sensitive skin types.

Ascorbic acid serums are often formulated at a low pH (below 3.5) and high active concentrations (around 15-20%), which can be tough for sensitive skin to handle. And let’s not forget the anhydrous forms of Vitamin C that can sometimes be even more problematic.

Should You Try a Derivative?

If your skin tends to react or get easily sensitized, you might want to consider a Vitamin C derivative instead. But keep in mind, there isn’t a ‘one-size-fits-all’ solution for sensitive skin. Each Vitamin C derivative is unique and will perform differently depending on the formulation. Patch testing is always a must!

The Power of Vitamin C: What Does It Do?

So, why all the fuss about Vitamin C at all? Well, it’s actually a master when it comes to its antioxidant capabilities. If Vitamin C were a superhero, its superpower would be fighting free radicals. These free radicals are generated by sun exposure, pollution, and just the general wear and tear of daily life. They can cause oxidative stress, leading to premature aging, dullness, and wrinkles.”

“Vitamin C helps neutralize these free radicals, giving your skin a chance to recover. It also supports collagen production, an essential cofactor for the enzyme that creates collagen. Without Vitamin C, your body can't produce new collagen. So if you're looking to keep your skin firm and youthful, it’s vital!

Topical vs. Dietary Vitamin C: Is Skincare Necessary?

People often ask, ‘If I eat enough Vitamin C, do I still need it in my skincare routine?’ The short answer is yes. While eating foods rich in Vitamin C is essential for overall health, only a small amount reaches your skin. Topical application ensures that your skin gets the Vitamin C it needs to fight free radicals and help boost collagen.

The Downsides of L-Ascorbic Acid

Now, as great as L-Ascorbic Acid is, it has its limitations. For starters, it's not lipid-soluble, meaning it struggles to penetrate your skin's lipid barrier. This barrier, made up of fatty molecules like ceramides, acts as a shield to keep moisture in and irritants out. Since L-Ascorbic Acid is water-soluble, it can have a hard time reaching the deeper layers of your skin where it’s needed to boost collagen production. It really is needed on the dermis level to have an impact.

Other Issues: pH and Stability

L-Ascorbic Acid also needs to be formulated at a low pH to be effective, and this can cause irritation for some people, myself included. Many people find their skin reacting with redness, tingling, or discomfort. And of course, there’s the well-known stability issue—Vitamin C degrades quickly when exposed to light, air, and water, turning your serum brown and less effective.

What About Stabilized Forms?

“Don’t get discouraged! Many brands have come a long way in creating stabilized forms of L-Ascorbic Acid that work just as effectively. They combine it with other ingredients to make it last longer without sacrificing potency. So even though it’s a difficult ingredient to work with, it’s still highly effective when formulated properly. But a high-quality and meticulously formulated product is key if you want to use and try L’Ascorbic Acid – and that comes with a price tag.

In summary, while L-Ascorbic Acid is the gold standard, it’s not always the best fit for everyone. If you’re struggling with irritation or stability issues, a Vitamin C derivative might be a better option. Just remember, skincare is personal, and what works for someone else might not work for you. Always patch test, and make sure to choose products based on your skin’s unique needs.

What are the Different Types of Vitamin C? Do Vitamin C Derivatives Work?

If you’re looking for an alternative to ascorbic acid, the first thing to ask is: What skin benefit are you hoping to get from Vitamin C? What is your Skin Focus?  The three main benefits of Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) are: antioxidant protection, brightening and tackling hyperpigmentation, and boosting collagen production. These benefits have been well-researched for ascorbic acid, but they don’t always automatically apply to its derivatives.

There are a lot of Vitamin C derivatives out there, which can be pretty overwhelming. Today, we’ll run through the most common ones you’ll encounter, what they’re best for, and which products use them.

L-Ascorbic Acid

We’ve already talked about L-Ascorbic Acid, which is the most evidence-based and effective form of Vitamin C. The derivatives were developed to address some of the challenges of L-Ascorbic Acid, like stability, absorption, and suitability for sensitive skin. Let’s break down a few of the key derivatives.

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

First up, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP). Tested benefits? It’s a milder antioxidant than ascorbic acid and is great for brightening. Interestingly, SAP is also one of the few Vitamin C derivatives tested for acne benefits. You can find it in out Everyday Glow Serum. 

It’s a more stable precursor of Vitamin C with studies backing its effectiveness, but—here’s the catch—it’s not as well-researched as ascorbic acid. That said, SAP has the added bonus of being gentler on sensitive skin, while still offering some great antioxidant and brightening benefits.

My thoughts? This one is perfect if you have sensitive, acne-prone skin.

THD Ascorbate

Next, we have THD Ascorbate. This one is oil-soluble, so it absorbs into the skin more easily. There’s a small study suggesting it can brighten hyperpigmentation, but here’s the thing: its antioxidant properties have only been tested in vitro (i.e., in a lab, not on actual human skin). It’s also highly dependent on other antioxidants in the formula for it to function well.

My thoughts? THD Ascorbate is extremely popular, but there’s very little data behind it. I’d only recommend it if the product has been backed by solid research or clinical tests.

3-O Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Let’s talk about 3-O Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, or Ethyl Ascorbic Acid. A few years ago, it was marketed as the next big thing in the Vitamin C space – every single brand jumped on to it and reformulated their Vitamin C serums to include this derivate into their portfolio —but that hype faded quickly. In reality, there’s very little data on it. What we do know is that it’s effective for skin brightening and hyperpigmentation. But when it comes to antioxidant benefits or collagen production, we’re still in the dark. It is also extremely pricey considering there are better alternatives to what it does offer.

My thoughts? The reputation here seems to outpace the actual science. Look for products with thorough testing before buying into this one.

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Ascorbyl Glucoside has shown all three of the main Vitamin C benefits—antioxidant, brightening, and collagen promotion—in lab studies. Topically, it’s used primarily in products that target hyperpigmentation and promote an even skin tone.”

This derivative is often found in K-beauty and J-beauty products.

My thoughts? It’s a solid option if your main goal is brightening and achieving a more even skin tone. Although again, there are other ingredients that can achieve the same.

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

This derivative, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, is known for its brightening properties. But here’s the twist—there’s actually some research showing it can boost collagen production, particularly in wound healing. However, it consistently underperforms in antioxidant and pigment-inhibition studies when compared to other forms of Vitamin C.

My thoughts? While it can boost collagen, it’s not as strong overall. It also struggles to penetrate the skin, so you’d need to apply it twice a day for best results. Personally, I’d skip this one.

Glyceryl Ascorbate

This is one of the newer derivatives on the market. What makes Glyceryl Ascorbate interesting is that it’s great for hydration, but it’s unclear whether it behaves like traditional Vitamin C in terms of brightening or antioxidant effects.

My thoughts?  It’s still early days for Glyceryl Ascorbate, and there are various forms of it, like bis-glyceryl ascorbate. Keep an eye on products with this ingredient as more data comes in.

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Finally, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate. This one isn’t as popular as some of the others, but it’s been around for quite some time. There are small studies that show its brightening benefits, but most of its antioxidant and collagen-boosting effects have only been tested in vitro.

My thoughts? The concentration of this derivative can vary a lot—sometimes as low as 1%—so there’s still a lot of guesswork about how much is needed for it to be effective.

Conclusion: Which Vitamin C Derivative is Best for You?

At the end of the day, choosing a Vitamin C derivative comes down to your skin focus and what skin problem you want to address. If you have sensitive or acne-prone skin, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate might be your best bet. For those looking for brightening but can’t tolerate ascorbic acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside or 3-O Ethyl Ascorbic Acid could be great alternatives. But remember, all derivatives need to convert into the pure form of Vitamin C to work, and not all are created equal. 

Is Vitamin C Worth the Hype?

Okay, so, is Vitamin C worth all the buzz? Honestly... it depends. While the benefits of L-Ascorbic Acid are undeniable—antioxidant power, wrinkle reduction, and improved texture—it can be irritating, especially if you have sensitive skin like me. That’s because for it to really penetrate the skin, the pH needs to be pretty low, which can cause irritation for some people."

But don’t worry if your skin doesn’t love L-Ascorbic Acid! Skincare has evolved, and we have amazing alternatives that deliver similar, if not better, results without the irritation. So, if Vitamin C isn’t working for you, don’t feel like you’re missing out. There are other ingredients that may be even more exciting for your skin.

Key FAQs from our customers 

This is definitely a lot of information to digest in one go! Vitamin C derivatives are a very diverse landscape that is worthy of exploration especially if you just haven’t found an ascorbic acid product that works for your skin. Sadly, there isn’t one we could say is for sure a 1:1 replacement of good ol’ l-ascorbic acid with all its tested benefits.  

Do vitamin C derivatives really work?

It can depend on your skin goal! Most vitamin C derivatives like ascorbyl glucoside, THD ascorbate, and 3-o ethyl ascorbic acid are primarily tested for skin brightening benefits. If you’re looking for antioxidant protective powers, sodium ascorbyl phosphate seems to be the best bet of the bunch followed by ascorbyl glucoside.

I have oily, breakout-prone skin, what is the best vitamin C for me?

SAP sodium ascorbyl phosphate is the one vitamin C form that has been tested specifically on acneic skin. We’d recommend starting there for those with oily, sensitive skin.  

How do I store vitamin C derivatives?

They might be more stable than ascorbic acid, but that doesn’t mean they’re ultra-degradation-proof. We’d still recommend general vampire settings and keeping an eye out for any formula color changes and separation. How do I incorporate vitamin C derivatives into my routine? For the most part, the same thing applies! Most of these that come in water-based serum formats, we’d recommend using vitamin C serums as the first step after cleansing. There are a few like THD ascorbate that you can find in emulsions since they are oil-based. We would apply these post toner/serum/water stuff step.