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There are quite a few ingredients in skincare products that can cause an unsightly rash in combination with the sun. Did you know that certain UV filters can even cause problems when exposed to sunlight? That is quite strange. Does your skin suddenly show hypersensitivity reactions in the sun? Then check the list of ingredients in the (sun) creams you use.

Some UV filters are known to often cause allergies. As most sun protection products contain several UV filters, it is not always easy to identify the allergy trigger and then find a product that is suitable for your skin. Sometimes you have to try three or four products. And then it should also be a UV filter that offers the best protection. Do all filters have the same effect?

Green, yellow and red light for these UV filters

To help you with your search, I have drawn up an overview of the most commonly used UV filters in skincare with a focus on Europ. The reason I focus on Europe, as Europe has the widest available UV filters in comparison to the USA that only approved a handful of UV filters. And we want to avoid most of them.

I have then divided these into "good", "doubtful" and "better to avoid" based on the available scientific literature. The question of whether I would allow the substance to come into contact with my niece's skin played an important role in the classification.

I would use the good UV filters without hesitation. I would not use the dubious UV filters on a daily basis. I would avoid the UV filters in the "better to avoid" category.

Overview of UV filters:

Please find below an overview of often used UV filters in sun care products. Take a photo of the table below or save it to your bookmarks, so when you go shopping for products next time, you will have this handy to make an informed decision.

Good sun filters: 
Filters which I trust completely to put on my own skin and my loved ones.

INCI	Possible Side Effects	Alternative Names	Description
Ethylhexyl Salicylate	Allergies	Octisilate	Octisilate is a relatively common UVB filter. It can give sunscreens water-resistant properties. Even if octisalate does not seem to have a hormonal effect in the body, we would not offer it, because it is often combined with octinoxate due to its weak UV protection properties.
Drometrizole Trisiloxane		Mexoryl XL	Mexoryl XL is also one of the new chemical UV filters that are UV stable and provide reliable UVA protection. It is combined with UVB filters to achieve broad-spectrum protection. Mexoryl XL has no hormonal effects in the body and is a chemical filter that we would offer. It can be found in L’Oréal products, where it is very often used in combination with Mexoryl SX due to its synergistic protective effect.
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone		Iscotrizinol	Iscotrizinol is a modern UV filter that protects against both UVA and UVB radiation.
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate		Univul A Plus	Uvinul A Plus is a potent and good UVA filter. This is used in sunscreens in combination with UVB filters to ensure broad-spectrum protection.
Terephtyhalydlidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid		Mexoryl SX Ecamsule	Mexoryl SX is similar to Mexoryl XL. It is a stable UVA filter that has no hormone effects in the body and is therefore recommended. It also has a stabilizing effect on other chemical filters (e.g. avobe zone). It can be found in L’Oréal products in combination with Mexoryl XL because they have a strong synergistic protective effect.
Octyltriazone		Ethylhexyl Triazone	Super, safe UVB filter. Stable, does not absorb through, not hormone disruptive and not likely to cause irritation. Iscotrizinol (Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone) would, by the way, be an improved version of octyltriazone (Ethylhexyl Triazone), however when formulating it seems to be less photostable. Definitely comes under the good filters.
Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (nano)		Tinosorb M	The term nano may shock you. Quite a bit has been written and discussed about nano particles and nano technology. Sadly, a lot of nonsense has also been sold. The term nano tells us, in particular, something about the size of the particles. Nano particles are particles which are smaller than 100 nanometre. (A nanometre is a billionth of a metre, so a thousandth of a millimetre). It is definitely an advantage in the sun protection field to be able to cut material into such tiny particles. These remain on the skin more readily, they are transparent instead of being white and are able to protect more effectively against sun damage. But how safe are they? It is very important to understand that nano particles are not all the same. The functioning and the safety of nano particles are connected to characteristics such as ability to clump together, the reaction in sunlight such as generating free radicals, the nature of the material, the exact size, form and the weight, the effect on the cell and the body’s capacity to break it down. All of these characteristics determine the eventual functioning and effect in the body. Just compare it with either a raindrop or a small stone on your windscreen; the same size, but having a very different effect. Without going into too much detail about all the various nano materials, we know from research into tinosorb M that these particles are relatively large, that the particles clump together and that the molecular weight of them is high (for those who would like to know precisely: above 500 dalton). Therefore, tinosorb M does not actually absorb through the skin. The chemical is very stable and does not form any damaging free radicals under the influence of sunlight. And that is very different to titanium dioxide and (uncoated) zinc oxide in nano form. Tinosorb M is not very likely to cause an allergy or skin irritation. And in contrast to many chemical sun filters, it doesn’t affect hormonal balance. Very recent research has revealed that tinosorb M has no effect on the DNA of the cell, and is not actually toxic. So even if the ingredient did absorb through the skin and get into the bloodstream there is no reason to panic. However, the adverse effects as described above are related to filters such as nano-titanium oxide and chemical filters such as oxybenzone and homosalate.   All of this is reason for me to add tinosorb M to my sun cream.

 

Possible sun filters
Filters that, for instance, are more likely to cause an allergic reaction and are also instable and/or form free radicals. Or filters where (too) little information is provided.

INCI	Possible Side Effects	Alternative Names	Description
Butyl Methoxydi-benzoyl-methane		Avobenzone (Parsol 1789)	I have a love-hate relationship with avobenzone. What is good about this filter: it is a very good UVA protector. On the other hand, however, avobenzone is very instable and is quite likely to cause an allergic skin reaction. In terms of instability, avobenzone can be corrected with other filters– they make sure that the filter can do its work and does not degrade in the sun. It is usually octocrylene (see red list), though, which is used to stabilise this… Should you not respond well to a product and you see that this combination has been used in your sun cream, then the likelihood is that these are the culprits. Furthermore, avobenzone should not be used in combination with octinoxate (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate); this filter actually causes avobenzone to degrade more rapidly.
Tris Biphenyl Triazine (nano)		Tinosorb A2B	There is less known about this form of tinosorb, however we do know that, just like tinosorb S, this sun filter has anti-inflammatory properties. In terms of size, it is most like tinosorb M. In combination with other filters, it can provide a real boost to the UVA protection.
Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate		Bisdisulizole Disodium	A stable filter which does not/or hardly absorbs through the skin, but where little is actually known about free radical forming and possible hormone disrupting properties. As well as this, there is a risk of skin reaction. A questionable option thus.
Dimethicone Diethyl Benzylmalonate		Polysilicone-15	A stable filter with very few reports about allergic reactions. It is a UVB filter but, in terms of ability to absorb UV light, it is not great in comparison to other filters. And very little further research into this has been done. Unlike many other filters, this chemical leaves a nice feel on the skin.
Zinc oxide			There is rather a lot to be covered here, therefore I would like to refer you to a separate Blog post.

 

 

Best avoid sun filters
Filters which are known to absorb easily into the body and can disrupt hormones.

INCI	Possible Side effects	Alternative Names	Description
Octocrylene	hormonal effect		Octocrylene primarily protects against UVB radiation. It also has a stabilizing effect on other UV filters. This filter also appears to have a hormone disruptive action in experiments on animals. Additionally, the chemical penetrates easily through the skin. It also leads to increased oxidative stress (increased production of free radicals).
Isoamyl Methoxycinnamate	hormonal impact; allergies	Isoamy P-Methoxycinnamate	Isoamyl P-methoxycinnamate is a hormone-active UV filter that can cause allergies (like all filters that end on “-cinnamate”.
Homosalate	hormonal impact; allergies		Homosalate is a (particularly in the USA) widely used UVB filter, which is often used in waterproof textures due to its lipophilic (fat-loving) properties. We would not offer this filter because a substantial amount is absorbed by the applied portion and the substance has hormonal effects in the body. Even though this ingredient is generally considered to be mild, it is an ester of salicylic acid (salicylate). Some people are allergic to salicylates, so special care should be taken with them.
Ethylhexyl Dimenthyl PABA	allergies	Padimate O	This is a derivative of the perhaps well-known PABA (Para-Aminobenzoic Acid). PABA was one of the very first sun filters. Nowadays, the chemical is no longer being used because it was discovered fairly quickly that it caused allergic reactions, the formation of free radicals and deep penetration. The filter even proved to be potentially carcinogenic in laboratory tests. Having said that, PABA is still allowed to be used. If you discover this abbreviation in the ingredients list then you are best off putting the product back on the shelf. Derivatives such as octyldimethyl PABA do form a safer option, but remain controversial.
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer	micro plastic	Tinosorb S Lite Aqa	We are fundamentally against microplastics in cosmetics
4-Methylbenzyliden	hormonal impact	Enzacamen	Enzacamen is a rarely used UVB filter that also protects against infrared radiation. We would not offer it because it is suspected of having a potential carcinogenic (carcinogenic) effect.
Benzophenone-3	hormonal impact, allergies	Oxybenzone	Fortunately, oxybenzone is rarely used in EU sunscreens, but more often in make-up products such as BB, CC creams and foundations. This is primarily a UVB filter, which also protects against a part of the UVA spectrum. Although Oxybenzone stabilizes other UV filters (e.g. Avobenzone), we would not offer this. This substance is known to penetrate the skin to a large extent and develop hormonal effects in the body. In addition, many people have an oxybenzone allergy. In this case, special care is required, because this ingredient is also found in other cosmetics (e.g. nail polish removers, hair sprays)!
Benzophenone-4	hormonal impact, allergies	Sulisobenzone	It is a rarely used UVB filter that also protects against part of the UVA spectrum. Since this substance is closely related to Oxybenzone (see benzophenone-3), we advise against it.
Benzophenone-5	hormonal impact, allergies	Sulisobenzone sodium	The sodium salt of benzophenone-4. S. benzophenone-4 or benzophenone-3. It is a rarely used UVB filter that also protects against part of the UVA spectrum. Since this substance is closely related to Oxybenzone (see benzophenone-3), we would not offer it.
Octyl Methoxycinnamate	hormonal impact	Octinoxate	The Octinoxate is a potent UVB filter that is used very often in sunscreens. We would not use this filter because it has hormonal effects and a certain toxicity in the body. In addition, octinoxate is often used in combination with oxybenzone – an unsightly combination that is best left off!
Polysilicone-15	silicone	Parsol SLX	Parsol SLX is a UVB filter that is used relatively rarely. We would not use this as silicones do not support the skin and its barrier.
Titanium Dioxide (non-nano)			Titanium dioxide is the second physical UV filter. Titanium dioxide protects against UVB only. That is why it is often combined with other UVA filters in sun creams. Titanium Dioxide is considered a carcinogen. While there is still a lot of debate about this, we are cautious and would suggest to avoid Titanium Dioxide. We would certainly steer away when you see it in sun powders and sprays. You can read more in the reference.
Titanium Dioxide (nano)	nano particle		We would not offer titanium dioxide in nano size.

 

 

A few more thoughts

So, here is another small remark that I sometimes make about the possibility of sun filters absorbing into the body via the skin. That possibility is, of course, smaller in a healthy, strong skin than, for instance, the delicate skin of children or of people with skin conditions such as eczema or rosacea. In terms of hormone disrupting properties: sun filters are often (on their own) tested for this in laboratories; it is not clear what the actual effect is on the body. But considering the frequency and amount you apply onto your children and yourself, I would much rather choose a product with filters from the green list.

I do understand, by the way, that after reading this list, with difficult and unpronounceable chemical names and properties, you may be feeling slightly dizzy. Hence, at NAYA, we have made it our mission to shed some light into this darkness and launched our firs t sun product the Everyday Sun Cream SPF 50.

And once again: if you have no other option, it is still better to apply a lower quality product than nothing at all!

 

Related posts: 

The Science between Chemical (organic) and Physical (inorganic) sunscreens

Shield your skin from the sun

Overview of filters

Does sunscreen deplete me from Vitamin D

Why you should protect your skin from UVA

 

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Reference

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