Niacinamide explained: How much Niacinamide is too much in your everyday skincare

Understanding Niacinamide: The Gentle Giant of Skincare

As a skincare enthusiast, you may have encountered the powerful effects—and potential irritations—of potent active ingredients like retinol and glycolic acid. In contrast, niacinamide is celebrated for its effectiveness while being gentle enough for most skin types. However, even gentle ingredients can have their limits. Remember, the dose makes the elixir.

Most active ingredients, including niacinamide, have an effective range that delivers long-term benefits without causing discomfort. Exceeding this range can lead to the infamous “too much of a good thing,” even with a star ingredient like niacinamide.

How Much Niacinamide Is Just Right?

Niacinamide has truly risen to superstardom, especially with products like The Ordinary’s 10% Niacinamide serum leading the charge. Many assume that 10% is the magic number, but clinical studies show that 2% to 5% is the sweet spot for achieving those beloved benefits—like reducing excess oil, brightening the skin, and supporting the moisture barrier. If you’re aiming for brightening effects, 5% niacinamide is the optimal level to look for.

You might wonder, “Wouldn’t 10% be twice as effective as 5%?” While higher concentrations can enhance efficacy, there’s a balancing act involved. All skincare ingredients interact with the same pathways, so simply increasing the percentage won’t necessarily yield better results. Plus, higher doses can increase the risk of irritation—even for the gentlest of ingredients, like Niacinamide.

Is Niacinamide Behind My Skin Irritation?

Most people tolerate niacinamide well, even at higher concentrations, but if you're experiencing unexplained skin rashes or irritation, it may be time to evaluate your niacinamide intake. If you have sensitive skin, taking a more cautious approach is advisable. As we like to say at NAYA, consistency over intensity is the key to maintaining healthy skin and a strong skin barrier.

One common issue with niacinamide isn’t just one high-dose product; it’s the accumulation of this ingredient across multiple products. Because niacinamide is stable and easily integrated into formulations, you’ll find it in everything from toners to serums—even in products that don’t specifically advertise it. So, if you’re noticing irritation, take a moment to review your product lineup. If niacinamide is among the top ingredients in several products, you may be overdoing it.

What to Do If You Experience Niacinamide Sensitivity

If you find yourself reacting to niacinamide, symptoms may manifest as redness, itchiness, or increased dryness and sensitivity. The best course of action? Go cold turkey on all niacinamide products. For about a week, simplify your routine to a basic cleanse, moisturise, and SPF regimen. Once your skin barrier has stabilised, you can gradually reintroduce actives.

Don’t worry, a reaction to niacinamide doesn’t mean you have to eliminate it forever. It could be due to overuse. After a reaction, the best strategy is to use just one lower-dose niacinamide product to see how your skin responds.

Recommended Lower-Dose Niacinamide Products

If you’re concerned about niacinamide overload, consider maintaining a basic, lower-dose product in your routine. Remember, 2% to 5% niacinamide used twice daily is plenty effective! Here are some of our top recommendations:

• RosẽaCalm Cream: This lightweight cream is designed for rosacea-prone skin, combining 5% niacinamide with peptides. It works beautifully as a moisturizer for oily skin or a hydrating layer for dry skin.

• Antioxidant Defence Booster: This Vitamin C powder is designed to brighten and protect your skin from antioxidant and stimulate collagen production during the day. It combines 5% Niacinamide, Shisandra and a healthy dose of the gold standard when it comes to Vitamin C; Ascorbic Acid. 

And we have some exciting new products launching that feature Niacinamide.

Finding Your Optimal Niacinamide Level

While there’s nothing inherently wrong with using higher levels of niacinamide, many brands seem to compete for the highest percentage. Remember, you only need 2% to 5% to enjoy its full range of benefits. If you’re experiencing unexplained skin irritation, keeping track of your niacinamide intake is essential.

At NAYA, we believe in the power of informed skincare choices, and that includes understanding the balance of ingredients for your unique skin needs. Embrace the journey to healthy, glowing skin!